Back in 1976, Midwest was a tiny retail space in the suburbs of Nagoya. Today, it\u2019s one of Japan\u2019s most influential multi-brand stores, or select shops, as they\u2019re known locally. The backbone of fashion retail in Japan, select shops are multi-brand stores that feature a highly curated range of brands; familiar names include Beams, United Arrows, and Dover Street Market. This month, Midwest celebrates its 50th anniversary.<\/p>\n
Midwest is an independent family business, passed through generations. Presiding over it today is CEO Takenori Osawa, a front-row regular and one of Japan\u2019s most respected buyers. His son, Ren, is head of menswear buying. \u201cPeople often ask about the meaning of the name Midwest, but it doesn\u2019t really have one,\u201d says Osawa. \u201cMid is a reference to always wanting to be in the center of fashion, and I grew up in the west of Nagoya. It\u2019s as simple as that.\u201d I meet the 58-year-old at his three-story store in Shibuya, central Tokyo, where the racks are filled with Rick Owens, Mihara Yasuhiro, and a raft of upcoming names that remain refreshingly under the radar.<\/p>\n Founder Masaru Osawa (centre), with his son (and current CEO) Takenori (right) and grandson Ren (left).<\/p>\n <\/span>Photo: Courtesy of Midwest<\/span><\/div>\n<\/figure>\n Today, Midwest stocks around 100 labels and operates three stores in Nagoya, Osaka, and Tokyo, attracting a loyal base of hardcore fashion enthusiasts. As many multi-brand retailers falter, Midwest is still growing and profitable, with sales increasing by approximately 10-20% year-on-year over the past few years. This summer, it plans to open a footwear-only store in Nagoya, as part of a large luxury development in the city, with an adjacent event space for pop-ups. Expansions of its Tokyo and Osaka stores will follow in 2026 and 2027, respectively.<\/p>\n For the 50th anniversary, the store is hosting a charity event at its stores across Japan in June and July, with designers submitting archive pieces. Proceeds will be allocated to future support programs for younger designers through Japan Fashion Week. As well as local brands like Van Jacket, Midwest was an early supporter of international designers, especially Belgian brands such as Maison Margiela, Raf Simons, and Dries van Noten, when they rose to prominence in the \u201990s. Kris Van Assche was another: \u201cMidwest was particularly important for the development of my brand, and they supported me in their three locations,\u201d says Van Assche. They also know how to draw a local crowd. \u201cThey invited me over to Japan for their 30th anniversary. I remember a huge crowd waiting for me in front of the store. It was incredible.\u201d<\/p>\n Founded by Osawa\u2019s father, Masaru, Midwest is one of the earliest and most successful examples of the select shop model. Masaru, who is currently the chairman of the business, took \u201cno days off for a full decade\u201d when he founded the store, opening from 10am to 11pm every day without a break. A young Osawa remembers sleeping under racks of designer clothes while his father entertained the fashion enthusiasts who would stop by after work. \u201cThey\u2019d serve alcohol and coffee, and people would just chat and buy things,\u201d he says. \u201cWe were sourcing items that were quite expensive even back then, and that you couldn\u2019t find in Nagoya or anywhere else.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n![\"Image](\"https:\/\/assets.vogue.com\/photos\/69c28509ea64d69260d0fdb3\/master\/w_1600%2Cc_limit\/midwest-vogueb-25326-inline-1.jpg\"\/)
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