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The greatest fashion related theory of everything is captured in WB Yeats\u2019s phrase \u201cperne in a gyre,\u201d from his poem \u201cSailing to Byzantium.\u201d He suggests that history unfolds in a pattern like that of a gyrating bobbin in a spinning mill, a DNA-like coned helix: everything repeats infinitely, but with infinite micro-variation.<\/p>\n
This was also the thrust of Susan Fang\u2019s collection logic this season. She said: \u201cHistory seems to be repeating itself. We think about infinity but it\u2019s in the shape of a loop\u2026 Since we grew up we were taught to have this goal to work hard\u2014kind of this capitalist world\u2014but now I feel that our world is having a lot of challenges. There is a lot of sadness happening. So we\u2019re wondering whether it\u2019s time to question what caused this.\u201d<\/p>\n
This rationale lent Fang coherent license to hop back and forth across history, plucking silhouettes from the 19th century, the mid-20th century, and the 21st century. She also flitted between contexts, presenting bridal-leaning looks and ballet tutus against daywear swathed in ski-sourced, sculpturally arranged down-filled panels. What connected them all was the aesthetic of ethereality she tried to conjure through the opaque lightness of her chiffon, tulle, and resin materials, and the cutesy, slightly saccharine sentiment telegraphed by the pastel color story and the plentiful use of embellishments shaped after lucky clover flowers, peach blossoms, and bows.<\/p>\n
The most notable bow sat enormously on the head of a model wearing a dress of line-linked resin butterflies that were designed to flutter around the body as she walked and which Fang said had taken more than a month to make. Combined with Fang\u2019s 3D printed ballerinas, lug-soled jellies, and the commercial EDM breakdown playing over the show it made me think of a mid-aughts Vegas dance party: kawaii sci-fi. This cleverly conceived collection was packed with pretty possibilities for Fang followers to factor into their future wardrobes.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n