\n<\/p>\n
To win more male attention in China, Xu recommends brands invest in activations to share insight from behind the scenes \u2014 not only runway shows, but detailed information on brand concept, fabric, and silhouette. \u201cMale consumers are more like brand disciples,\u201d she says. \u201cThey\u2019re not only buying for a \u2018look\u2019, they want to hear the ideas and beliefs of the brand.\u201d<\/p>\n
On the flip side, the lack of boundary-pushing menswear means less competition, which Darmon says presents an opportunity for designers with a strong point of view. \u201cIf you really go for menswear and specialize in it, then you can become the only option,\u201d she says. Darmon cites Untitlab among the labels to watch, known for its bold, kinky footwear (it recently went viral thanks to Alexander Skarsg\u00e5rd wearing the brand\u2019s Fisherman boots), and Structura, which makes minimal, sporty menswear. \u201cIn terms of pattern, it\u2019s giving something super new.\u201d<\/p>\n
Other brands are deepening their sports-focused offerings in order to compete. 8ON8 is planning to focus more on sportswear, building on the long-term collaborations it has done with the likes of Asics, in order to appeal to male consumers. \u201c8ON8 itself has a strong sports DNA,\u201d Gong says. \u201cIn the future, for young Chinese men, I will focus more on enhancing [those] aesthetics, on top of functionality.\u201d<\/p>\n
Q1 has seen many brands launch activations in the Chinese market, including Maison Margiela choosing Shanghai<\/a> for its first-ever runway outside Paris with a show that included menswear, womenswear, and its Artisanal line, as well as Ralph Lauren\u2019s flagship opening in Chengdu, with expectations for the brand\u2019s China business<\/a> to grow \u201cat least double digits\u201d, according to CEO Patrice Louvet.<\/p>\n Though success with menswear in China isn\u2019t guaranteed, the country still offers a large and dynamic market that many are keen to tap into. The French Menswear Federation made a strategic move into Shanghai this season, with a dedicated showroom that featured four French designers: Baziszt, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Egonlab, and Coltesse. The hope is that these menswear labels can grow their businesses in the Chinese market, as part of long-term expansion plans. \u201cInteresting brands can make good business in Asia more easily than [they can in] Europe,\u201d says Guillaume Ruby, the federation\u2019s communications director, adding that the designers were surprised by how many local buyers expressed interest in their collections. \u201cIn Europe, it takes more time.\u201d<\/p>\n Even so, without a strong grasp of the local market, global brands can also struggle to gain traction. Element\u2019s Zhu warns against treating China as one market. \u201cWhen developing a foreign brand in China, it\u2019s necessary to have a thorough understanding of China\u2019s national conditions and market. The environment, climate, and food in different cities are very different,\u201d he says. \u201cAs the most developed city in China\u2019s economy, Shanghai is highly internationalized. There are some men in Shanghai who often travel or study abroad, so their consumption habits are relatively international. But such men are only a small part of Shanghai, and the residents of each city have different lifestyles and consumption views.\u201d<\/p>\n Ruby advises brands to be open and flexible when joining the Chinese menswear market. \u201cYou can either enter by doing a collaboration, for instance, or by trading with a big retailer,\u201d he says. \u201cAnd remember that it\u2019s not a small market, so you need to be prepared in terms of production and delivery. Things can happen much faster here.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n