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Albus Lumen is still a minimalist brand, but this season brought a welcome edge. While the modernist aesthetic prevails globally, in today\u2019s popular clothing, the style is more often than not expressed through soft silhouettes, airy fabrics, and a clean yet gentle polish. Sometimes one can forget its radical origins\u2014but not designer Marina Afonina. In her warehouse world under a massive, low-hanging blue light, lightweight nylon was still as sharp as a surprising pop of pool blue was angsty.<\/p>\n
The designer recently celebrated 10 years, and the milestone has only made her sharpen her tools. As a result, the idea of a uniform and her own form of retrofuturism\u2014that bridged \u201890s minimalism and what she called \u201cfuturistic maximalism\u201d\u2014took shape more distinctly in this season\u2019s collection. Sharp suiting classics, like one blazer with a darted peplum shape, were at the forefront, where less rigid shapes might have been before. Monochromatic skirt suits took a strong stance, without veering into matronly or schoolyard territories. Even moments of silk organza and sequins, while feminine, retained a practical feel. \u201cSort of like Blade Runner<\/em>, the movie came to mind.\u201d<\/p>\n One thing is clear: Afonina has confidence in her vision. If anything, it\u2019s the variable retail and global landscape that\u2019s bringing out a more urgent side of both her creativity and production prowess. \u201cI don’t want to do a collection and sell it 6 months later,\u201d she said. \u201cBecause you don’t even know if you’re going to sell it.\u201d As a result, the collection will follow a \u201csee now, buy soon\u201d approach, with many of the pieces planned to be available for sale in just a month. There’s nothing quite as efficient as a uniform, anyway.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n