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Emilie Martinsen-K\u00f8nigsfeldt is taking By Malene Birger in a direction that’s more ladylike than bohemian. When she describes the resort collection as being \u201ca little bit retro,\u201d she doesn\u2019t mean it looks vintage, but rather that it\u2019s polished and feminine. Case in point: A black pantsuit with slim-cut trousers and a collarless jacket edged with black and white braid. \u201cI said to the design team, \u2018If I were a jacket, I would definitely be that jacket,\u2019\u201d the creative director related with a smile. While classic, this topper is softer and more sensual than what you\u2019d see at Le Cirque circa 1986.\u00a0<\/p>\n
This is an offering that encourages ASMR responses through sound\u2014see the knit cape and skirt embedded with pearls\u2014and touch. Pettable doe-patterned pony hair is used for a coat and, winningly, for a perky mini paired with a crisp pink shirt. There\u2019s also a cardigan adorned with felted, raised appliques inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe\u2019s flower studies. Movement enters the picture through fringe, which trims the cape-front and low-cut back of a dress, plus a tassel-trimmed A-line trench. The reference for this was an Italian interior, but it also speaks to the Poiret-isms we\u2019ve been seeing lately. In any case, this collection is fully in the swing when it comes to dressing smartly, but with ease.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n