Fall marks a homecoming to Madrid Fashion Week for Ernesto Naranjo, who first participated in the event in 2014 when he was still a student at Central Saint Martins. In the intervening decade-plus the designer lived abroad, worked with John Galliano at Maison Margiela, founded his own company, and started teaching. His new collection exhibits the skills he developed, but also shows his range. Naranjo is known for dresses, but like many others this season, he had a feeling for build-a-look separates. “I always felt that I was an event designer—and I know that I am that person and I love it—but I wanted to put myself outside of the comfort zone,” he said on a call.

Naranjo’s building blocks were garments that he cut mostly from circular and square-cut patterns. Some of these turned into soft sculptures on the body—see the LBD and the two-tone cape. Others were multifunctional, like tops that could be worn as skirts. He also repurposed belts as dramatic collars. Straw pom-poms peeking out from the folds of a pink chiffon blouse also adorned belts, a style that some models slung decoratively over their shoulders. If these look familiar, it’s because they resemble the flowers flamenco dancers wear and were made in Andalusia, where Naranjo is from.

Further-flung reference points included artists Ángela de la Cruz, Gillian Theobald, the Gutai movement, and Studio 54 glam. The last was most legibly expressed in draped jersey and glittering lamés. Closures, as is usual here, were minimal; the sensuality of a stray button or a ribbon tie suggested states of undress. The opening looks of crin-framed jersey danced on their own.