As I wander back along the scrubby pathway to the hotel—nestled within a pine forest, and arranged, amphitheater-like, as layers of low-lying buildings descending from the hills all the way down to its two private beaches—it feels a little strange to imagine that the teeming metropolis of Athens is less than an hour’s drive away. But that’s exactly what makes the prospect of staying at Cape Sounio so appealing. Historically, Athens has been where holidaymakers stop for a night or two to visit the Acropolis before heading out via ferry to their week-long stay on one of the islands. With the combination of Cape Sounio and their stylish city center property, The Dolli (more on that later), its owners—the third-generation hotelier Daskalantonakis family, who operate one of the country’s leading hospitality groups, Grecotel—are proposing a different kind of Athenian getaway. A few days in the city, a few days by the beach; the latter still with the option to head into town for some shopping, or to visit a museum or two, or just to wander through the bougainvillea-filled streets of the historic Plaka neighborhood. Essentially, it’s the best of both worlds.

Especially because Cape Sounio offers the kind of secluded, cut-off-from-the-chaos feeling you’d think would be impossible to find so close to the city. It’s evident, however, from the moment you arrive, pulling up the sweeping driveway and into the enormous open-plan lobby and restaurant building, which has been designed as a sleeker, more contemporary echo of the Temple of Poseidon’s architecture, and which you can see perched on a hilltop from nearly every corner of the property. After being whisked by a golf buggy to one of your suites or bungalows or villas—there are actually 139 of them scattered across the estate, though you’d never guess with how cleverly they’ve been arranged (plus, the sprawling array of amenities to ensure no single spot ever gets too crowded, even with plenty of families on-site). You might then find yourself, as I did, in a suite with enormous glass sliding doors to take in the marvelous sea views, with the interiors done up in a calm, contemporary style; think white marble floors, cream bouclé furniture, and minimalist paintings by Greek artists on the wall. If you didn’t feel a sense of calm already, you will now.

Photo: Courtesy of Grecotel

The real showstopper here, though, is the spa. Situated at the end of a winding uphill pathway through the pines, there’s a keen sense of ceremony to your arrival: before the entrance, on your left, you’ll find a stunning outdoor mineral pool, a geometric concrete wonder that juts out over the edge of the cliff and offering panoramic views (and probably the best vista of the Temple of Poseidon in the house). There’s a gentle hum of activity as I enter the main building—a soothing medley of glass walls and terrazzo stone floors, the sound of a harp being plucked over the speakers—and take a seat (and down the shot of Living Elixir olive oil that’s quickly placed in my hand) as I prepare for my ancestral cupping massage. Because while the spa here may be beautifully designed, it also has the credentials to back it up: Cape Sounio’s wellness programs are overseen by the Athens-born, Los Angeles-based holistic wellness mastermind Vicky Vlachonis, whose programs are beloved by the likes of Lady Gaga and Gwyneth Paltrow. And if it’s good enough for Gwynnie, it’s good enough for me.