Echoing a common refrain heard at the fall 2026 shows, Sisi Li said, “the whole idea, everything I do, is about the layering. It’s not about a season; it’s about something that you need in your closet.” At Nells Nelson, this fashion industry veteran has made a specialty of subtle tailoring whose appeal is as connected to fabric feel as it is to silhouette. Once a customer grows accustomed to the supple cashmere of her suits, it’s hard to wear anything else, which is why she’s putting a lot of her efforts into custom work.

This collection will please her acolytes and those unfamiliar with her work. She’s livened up her palette with deep bordeaux, caramel, and a teal-ish navy, and she’s experimented with fresh cuts, like the full trousers cropped above the ankles. A double-breasted jacket will be sold with matching scarves, which lend a rakish attitude to an otherwise hardworking look. Another three-button single-breasted style was fashioned with stand-up lapels, making it a nice option for after dark, even when paired with non-jean jeans made from a wool whose warp and weft threads are different colors. The most interesting development was a cape with a quilting detail around the collar that, in a pinch, can function as a hood.