The pop singer worked with her close friend Anna Fleische on cultivating the retro, West End-inspired setting of the show, as well as the flow of her set list. (Come for her single “West End Girl,” stay for “Madeline” and “Pussy Palace.”) “I’ve done two West End plays and a play in Bath last summer, all of which the set design was executed by Anna,” says Allen. “We were rehearsing Hedda in Bath when I asked her to have a think about how I could bring this album to life in a theatrical way. I think what she has done is nothing short of genius.”
Equally as genius? The glamorous fashion that Allen wears on stage through it all, brought to life by the legendary stylist Mel Ottenberg, who has worked with Rihanna, among others, and is the current editor-in-chief of Interview. “I asked Mel if he would come out of retirement to do this tour with me, and to my delight, he said yes,” says Allen. “Mel’s idea was for me to go on a journey: I start very put together, but it all becomes undone in line with the record—and we piece me back together again.”
For Ottenberg, the tour wardrobe was about cultivating a fashion mood that echoed the themes of pain and heartbreak in the show. The aim was storytelling, through clothes. “Getting to help Lily tell her brutal story of heartbreak and loss with styling, and making her feel hot doing so, was a challenge I was up for,” he says. “I wanted to start with something really fun and pastel—almost manic in its happiness, and then quickly move right into something raw, naked, and vulnerable as her life falls apart.”
For her first look, for instance, Allen emerges wearing a custom Valentino suit, sheer slip, and platform heels, with lingerie by Araks. He wanted her to look and feel exposed. “There’s a scene in Belle De Jour where Catherine Deneuve is spaced out and takes off a dress, takes off a slip, and puts on a robe very quickly, and that was the vibe I wanted to get across,” says Ottenberg. “I was also watching lots of early 1930s movies on Criterion, which there are many notes of in the way the lingerie moves and flows onstage.”
Photo: Christina Bryson
