Khoki has been tracing its roots.

Run by a collective of clever designers who keep a low profile, the label has been gaining traction among menswear fans but has occasionally struggled to articulate its design identity. This season the team attempted to remedy that by refining the language around what they do, asking: What makes something feel ‘Khoki’? Among the themes that emerged during the process were flea markets, beauty in chaos, and regular motifs of American folk art.

Last season, a heavy focus on Kyoto hand-dyeing meant familiar elements of the brand, such as its quilting, became much less present. It may have looked good, but buyers got confused. “In my mind it was a kind of chaotic beauty, bringing together Japanese traditions and everything else into one collection. But from a sales perspective, it didn’t really translate,” said Koki Abe.

Fall 2026 is a season of reflection and consolidation, appropriately shot in Abe’s childhood home. “It represents the intersection of my team’s work and my family home. We wanted to capture the scenery of my hometown, which felt so boring and prison-like back then,” he said. The puffy floral pieces were repurposed from “uncool” cushion covers at Abe’s parents’ and aunt’s houses, mixed with bow-legged painter pants, and some drapey pinstripe trousers contrasting with puffy velvet mini skirts.

The most intriguing clothes were the ones that incorporated the brand’s biggest strength: its whimsy. This came through in the MA-1 bombers brightened up with vibrant patchwork, romantic lace cuffs that sprouted from striped shirts, and tough canvas workwear jackets spliced with surprisingly soft Cowichan sweaters. Very charming—and yes, very Khoki.